An RV toilet that rocks, leaks or won't hold water is a quick fix - and replacing a worn flush valve is even quicker. This guide covers both jobs, using the popular Dometic 310 as the example since it's fitted to so many off-road campers.
First: is it the valve or the whole toilet?
If the bowl won't hold water or the flush is weak, you usually just need a new flush valve and seal kit - a 20-minute job that saves you replacing the whole unit. If the toilet is cracked, the base is loose beyond adjustment, or the porcelain/plastic is damaged, replace the toilet. Browse toilets and sanitation parts to match your model.
Replacing the flush valve
- Turn off the water supply and pump, and flush to release pressure.
- Remove the access panel or cover at the base of the toilet.
- Disconnect the water line and remove the old flush valve and seal.
- Fit the new valve and seal, reconnect the water line.
- Restore water and test for leaks through several flushes.
Replacing the whole toilet
- Shut off and disconnect the water supply; flush to empty.
- Remove the floor bolts (usually two) and lift the old toilet clear.
- Scrape off the old floor seal/flange gasket and clean the surface.
- Fit a fresh flange seal, set the new toilet, and bolt it down evenly - snug, not over-tight, to avoid cracking the base.
- Reconnect the water and test through several flushes, checking the base seal.
What to buy
The Dometic 310 is a lightweight, low-profile RV toilet with a foot-flush pedal and full-size seat - a direct fit for many off-road campers. For repairs, an RV toilet flush valve is the cheaper first step. Both ship from the US. Unsure which fits your camper? Send us your model and we'll confirm.
While you're in maintenance mode, our off-road camper maintenance checklist covers everything else worth checking.