Most RVs need 200–600 watts of solar. A good rule of thumb is about 100 watts of panel for every 100Ah of lithium battery you want to recharge in a day of sun, plus headroom for cloudy days. Light users — lights, phones, a water pump — do well at 200W. Full-timers running a fridge and an inverter usually want 400–600W. This guide shows you how to size your array, choose between rigid and flexible panels, and pick the right kit for how you actually camp.
How much solar power do you actually need?
Start with what you use, not with a panel. Add up the watt-hours (Wh) your gear draws in a typical day, then size the array to replace that energy during the hours of usable sun you get.
The quick method: daily watt-hours ÷ 4 sun-hours = minimum solar watts. (Four usable sun-hours is a conservative, all-season figure.) Add ~25% headroom for cloudy days, panel angle, and wiring losses.
Typical daily power use
| Appliance | Power | Hours/day | Watt-hours/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| LED lights | 15W | 5 | 75 |
| Phone / device charging | 20W | 4 | 80 |
| Water pump | 50W | 1 | 50 |
| 12V fridge | 50W | 10 (cycling) | 500 |
| Laptop / TV | 60W | 3 | 180 |
A weekend setup (lights, devices, pump) lands near 200Wh/day. Add a fridge and you're at ~700Wh/day. Add an inverter for coffee, induction, or charging power tools and you're past 1,000Wh/day.
Solar sizing by camping style
| How you camp | Daily use | Recommended solar | Matching battery bank |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weekend / hook-ups nearby | ~200 Wh | 100–200W | 100Ah |
| Off-grid with a fridge | ~700 Wh | 300–400W | 200Ah |
| Full-time / inverter loads | 1,000+ Wh | 400–600W | 300–400Ah |
Sizing your battery bank too? See how to build a Victron off-grid power system, and shop RV lithium batteries.
Monocrystalline vs flexible vs portable panels
The panel type matters as much as the wattage. Here's how the three common choices compare for RV use.
| Rigid monocrystalline | Flexible | Portable / suitcase | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Efficiency | Highest | Good | Good |
| Mounting | Roof, permanent | Curved/low-profile roofs | Ground, movable |
| Durability | 20+ years | Shorter (heat) | Good, but loose parts |
| Weight on roof | Higher | Very low | None (stored) |
| Best for | Most builds | Weight-sensitive / curved roofs | Parking in shade, renters |
Our recommendation: rigid monocrystalline for a permanent roof array (best value and lifespan), flexible only where weight or a curved roof rules out rigid, and a portable suitcase panel as a supplement when you like to park in the shade and chase the sun with a panel on the ground.
Don't forget the charge controller
Panels can't connect straight to your battery — you need a charge controller between them. For almost every modern RV build that means an MPPT controller, which harvests 15–30% more energy than the older PWM type. Match the controller to your array's voltage and current so you don't clip output.
See MPPT vs PWM charge controllers for the why, then shop MPPT charge controllers to match your panels.
Wiring, fuses & roof mounting (the short version)
Once you've chosen panels, you'll need correctly-sized PV cable, a fuse or breaker on the array, and a weatherproof roof entry gland. Wire panels in series to keep current (and cable size) down on longer runs, or in parallel to keep working if one panel is shaded. Shop fuses and solar gear to complete the install.
Our picks by use-case
- Weekend warrior (200W): a single 200W rigid panel + a compact MPPT controller — keeps lights, pump and devices topped up.
- Off-grid with a fridge (400W): 2× 200W rigid panels + a 30A MPPT — comfortably runs a 12V fridge and recharges a 200Ah bank.
- Full-timer (600W): 3× 200W panels + a 50A MPPT feeding a 300–400Ah lithium bank and an inverter for AC loads.
Browse the full range on our RV solar panels & kits collection and MPPT charge controllers — everything's in stock and ships from Upland, CA.
Frequently asked questions
Can I add solar to my Black Series camper?
Yes. Most Black Series HQ-series campers have roof space for 200–600W and many are pre-wired for solar. Confirm your roof area and existing wiring, then match panels to your battery bank using the table above.
Should I wire panels in series or parallel?
Series raises voltage and keeps cable size down on long runs (good for MPPT); parallel keeps the array working if one panel is partially shaded. Many RV builds use a series-parallel mix.
Will 200W run my RV fridge?
On a sunny day, 200W can offset a 12V compressor fridge, but for reliable all-day, all-weather fridge use plus other loads, step up to 300–400W and a 200Ah battery bank.
Rigid roof panels or a portable suitcase panel?
Rigid roof panels charge automatically and need no setup; portable panels let you park in the shade and put the panel in the sun. Many owners run a roof array and add a portable panel for tough sites.
Ready to build your array? Shop RV solar panels & kits — genuine gear, in stock, ships from Upland, CA.