Your trailer brakes are only as good as the drum and hub they run on. On off-road trailers, grit, heat, and water intrusion wear these parts faster than on highway rigs. Here's how to know when to replace a brake drum/hub and how the job goes.
Shop the brake drum/hub assembly (supplied greased with two bearings) and more in brakes, suspension, tires & wheels.
Warning signs
- Weak or uneven braking - the trailer pushes the tow vehicle or pulls to one side.
- Scoring or grooves on the drum's friction surface.
- Out-of-round drum causing pulsing when braking.
- Bearing damage in the integrated hub (see our wheel bearing service guide).
Replacing the drum/hub
- Jack and support the trailer, remove the wheel.
- Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, castle nut, and slide off the old drum/hub.
- Inspect the brake magnet and shoes/backing plate while you're in there.
- Fit the new drum/hub assembly, set bearing preload, install a new cotter pin and dust cap.
- Test brakes gently before heading out.
Frequently asked questions
Should I replace both sides at once?
For even braking, replacing in pairs is good practice, especially if both have similar mileage.
Does the assembly include bearings?
Our brake drum/hub comes fully greased with two bearings, simplifying the job.
Shop brakes & suspension and chassis parts. Ships from Upland, CA.