The Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch does the job of a spring-bar hitch with two chains and a cone. There are no heavy bars to lift, and sway control is built into the ball. Choosing one comes down to four things: the drop or rise your truck needs, the ball size your trailer's coupler takes, the brackets that fit your trailer frame, and whether the ratings cover your trailer. This guide walks through each, using Andersen's own manual and specs.
How the Andersen WD hitch works
Andersen describes three parts doing the work:
- A friction cone at the ball. The tapered hitch ball sits in a cone of brake-type friction material inside the ball housing. Tongue weight pushes the ball down into the cone, which resists the trailer rotating on the ball. That is the sway control, with no separate sway bar.
- Two tension chains. A triangle-shaped sway control plate sits under the ball. Chains run from it back to brackets clamped on the trailer's A-frame. Tightening the chains transfers part of the tongue load forward to the truck's front axle and back to the trailer axles.
- Red urethane springs. One sits on each chain bolt and cushions bumps. Andersen says this keeps the setup from bouncing the way rigid spring bars can.
Andersen says the hitch weighs under 60 lb and that the ball housing is grease-free. Its manual says: do not grease the ball or coupler, because grease in the housing reduces the sway control.
Andersen also notes its design leaves more tongue weight on the truck's rear axle than some spring-bar systems, for traction and stability. In its FAQ example, with about 900 lb of tongue weight, roughly 30% is transferred forward. If your truck already squats a lot, Andersen says some owners add airbags or other suspension help.
The six kits we stock
All six have a 2 in shank and come with Andersen's universal 3/4/5/6 in frame brackets. Pick the drop, then the ball.
| Part | Drop/rise rack | Ball | Andersen ball rating (GTWR) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3341 | 4 in | 2 in | 10,000 lb |
| 3340 | 4 in | 2-5/16 in | 14,000 lb |
| 3361 | 6 in | 2 in | 10,000 lb |
| 3360 | 6 in | 2-5/16 in | 14,000 lb |
| 3381 | 8 in | 2 in | 10,000 lb |
| 3380 | 8 in | 2-5/16 in | 14,000 lb |
Andersen's product page quotes a maximum of 16,000 lb GTWR and 1,600 lb tongue weight. Those maximums belong to Andersen's larger-shank versions with its 16K ball, which we do not stock. For the 2 in shank kits above, use the ball ratings in the table. Andersen's manual rates the hitch at up to 1,400 lb tongue weight to meet SAE J684 (1,600 lb only with the 2-5/16 in ball and a 3 in shank rack), and the 2 in shank rack is rated up to 14,000 lb with 1,500 lb tongue weight, with the ball rating also limiting capacity.
Put together: on these kits, plan around 10,000 lb or 14,000 lb trailer weight depending on the ball, and 1,400 lb tongue weight. Then compare that with your truck's tow rating, its receiver's weight-distributing rating, your trailer's coupler rating and the trailer's GVWR. The lowest number is your limit. Andersen's own wording: hitch ratings do not increase tow-vehicle or trailer limits.
Step 1: pick the drop
The rack can be installed in the drop or the rise position, so a 4 in rack covers up to 4 in either way. To find what you need, measure the receiver and the coupler with both truck and trailer loaded and level; our answer on how much drop a ball mount needs has the method.
The Andersen setup adds one twist. When you set the ball housing in the rack, Andersen's manual puts the top of the ball about 1 to 2 in higher than the top of the trailer's coupler, and 2 in higher for half-ton trucks with heavier trailers. The truck squats once the trailer is on, and the chains then bring the front back up. Allow for that extra height when you choose between 4, 6 and 8 in.
Racks are sold on their own too, if you change trucks later: 3353 4 in, 3363 6 in and 3351 8 in for 2 in receivers, plus 2-1/2 and 3 in versions. Andersen says they also fit its EZ Hitch combo ball.
Step 2: pick the ball
Match the ball to your coupler. A 2-5/16 in coupler on a 2 in ball is unsafe, and the reverse will not close. Look for the size stamped on the coupler. Beyond fit, the 2-5/16 in kits carry the higher 14,000 lb ball rating. If your trailer has a 2 in coupler, the 10,000 lb rating of the 2 in ball is your hitch limit.
Coupler warning from Andersen: four Atwood couplers, models 88007, 88010, 88555 and 88600, can become unlatched over time with weight distribution hitches as their internal latch wears. Andersen recommends replacing those couplers. It says other Atwood couplers and older Marvel couplers are compatible.
Step 3: pick the frame brackets
The brackets clamp to the trailer's A-frame, one inside and one outside piece on each side. Our six kits ship with the universal 3/4/5/6 in brackets, which cover the most common frame heights. Measure the height of your trailer's frame rails. If they are not 3 to 6 in, or the coupler hangs below the frame, order the matching bracket set:
- 3331 4-3/8 in brackets
- 3387 7 and 8 in brackets
- 3369 Raised 3/4/5/6 in brackets, which Andersen lists for low frames and recommends for the most ground clearance
- 3359XTD Extended 3/4/5/6 in brackets, for underslung couplers
Each set has two inside brackets, two outside brackets and mounting hardware. Andersen's manual says the hitch fits nearly all Y-style trailer frames, and some setups use the outside brackets only. For C-channel frames the manual offers pre-drilled set screw holes or welded outside brackets, but its warnings also say not to weld brackets to the frame, so ask Andersen before welding. Check for propane lines, brake lines and wiring before you clamp anything.
Step 4: rule out surge brakes
Andersen says not to use its WD hitch with any kind of surge brake system, as with all weight distribution hitches, because the forward pressure keeps surge brakes engaged.
Andersen's manual also warns that electronic sway systems on some 2011 and newer trucks can fight its sway control; if so, it says to turn that system off.
Setting it up, in brief
- Start on level ground with the trailer level front to back and loaded the way you tow. Andersen suggests about 60% of the cargo in the front of the trailer and 40% in the back.
- Set the ball housing in the rack 1 to 2 in above the coupler, and torque the two housing bolts to 150 ft-lb.
- Couple the trailer with almost no weight on the ball, fit the sway control plate and line it up roughly square to the trailer.
- Attach the chains, urethane springs and washers to the outside brackets. Andersen warns the washers must be fitted or the nut will split the spring.
- Pull the chains tight, pull the tops of the brackets so they sit at as much of an angle as possible, and torque the bracket bolts to at least 75 ft-lb, or up to 90 ft-lb if your frame does not compress.
- Hand-tighten the tension nuts, then turn them about three more full turns. Andersen says the red springs should show a slight bulge, and the truck does not need to be perfectly level.
Re-check whenever the load changes, and inspect the friction cone before each tow. Andersen says signs of wear include the ball sinking more than 1/8 in from its normal position or a drop in sway control. Spare parts, from the 3358 urethane spring to the 3383 anti-sway assembly, are in the Andersen Hitches collection. For a second trailer, the 3372 WD Trailer Kit puts brackets and chains on it so the hitch moves across.
Weight distribution helps handling, but it does not fix a tired trailer. Our pre-tow trailer checklist covers bearings, brakes and the breakaway system.
FAQ
Do I need separate sway bars with the Andersen WD hitch?
No. Andersen builds sway control into the ball housing with the friction cone.
Can I back up with it connected?
Andersen says its hitch can stay connected while backing up and on wet, slick or gravel roads.
Which is right for my trailer, 2 in or 2-5/16 in ball?
Whichever your coupler is stamped for. The 2-5/16 in kits carry Andersen's 14,000 lb ball rating; the 2 in kits carry 10,000 lb.
Why are there red shavings around the ball?
Andersen says a few shavings are normal as the ball seats into the liner during the first uses.
Will it work with surge brakes?
No. Andersen says not to use it with any surge brake system.