On RV, van and boat forums the Starlink power question is always the same. Can I skip the inverter and run it straight off my 12 volt battery? For the Mini, yes, it takes DC natively. For the Standard dish, Starlink sells a DC power supply in some markets. Here is what each one draws, what an inverter really costs you, and how to wire, fuse and size the battery.
What Starlink draws, by Starlink's own numbers
| Dish | Average | Idle | Power input |
|---|---|---|---|
| Starlink Mini | 20 to 40 W (Help Center); 25 to 40 W (spec sheet) | 15 W | 12 to 48 V DC, 60 W rating |
| Starlink Standard (Standard 4 and 4 X) | 75 to 100 W | 20 W | AC supply, or Starlink's DC-DC supply at 12 to 48 V DC |
Starlink says these averages include the dish, router, power supply and cables, and are measured at the AC input. Starlink also says draw varies with temperature, location and use.
At 12.8 volts, that is about 1.6 to 3.1 amps for a Mini and about 6 to 8 amps for a Standard.
What the inverter costs you
Through an inverter, power is converted twice. The inverter turns 12 volts DC into 120 volts AC, and Starlink's power brick turns it back into DC. Each step loses some energy.
Victron's datasheet for its small VE.Direct inverters gives real numbers. On the 12 volt models, the inverter alone draws 4.2 watts (250 VA) to 12 watts (1,600 VA) with nothing plugged in, and peaks at 87 to 92 percent efficiency. That idle draw runs 24 hours a day:
- 6.5 watts (800 VA model) is about 156 watt-hours a day, or 12 amp-hours.
- 12 watts (1,600 VA model) is about 288 watt-hours a day, or 22 amp-hours.
On a Mini that averages 30 watts, that overhead is a big share of the bill. If a large inverter, such as our 1000 W unit, is already running for other loads, the extra cost is smaller, but you still pay the conversion loss. Victron's small inverters peak at 87 to 92 percent, so at least 8 to 13 percent of the energy is lost there. Check the no-load figure on your own inverter's datasheet. For a dish that runs all day, going DC is the bigger win.
Starlink's official 12 volt options
Starlink Mini
- The Mini is rated for 12 to 48 volts DC, 60 watts, so it runs directly from a 12 or 24 volt system.
- The Mini Car Adapter plugs into a 12 to 24 volt auxiliary outlet and powers the Mini through USB-C. It replaces the Mini's 15 meter cable and power supply. Starlink says it is sold in select markets only, and the adapter and the USB-C end should not be exposed outdoors.
- The Mini USB-C cable is 5 meters (16.4 feet) and needs a 100 watt (20 V, 5 A) USB-C power source. Starlink says the Mini will not work on a USB-C source rated below 65 watts.
Starlink Standard
- The Standard DC-DC Power Supply takes 12 to 48 volts DC at up to 30 amps and puts out 56 volts. It has XT60 connectors on both sides and uses 12 AWG wire. It is sold in select markets only.
- The Advanced Power Supply accepts AC or DC input and also uses XT60.
For current prices, availability and the Advanced Power Supply's DC input range, check starlink.com. Also note Starlink's own caveat: it only guarantees Mini performance with the included power supply and cable.
Cable run and voltage drop
The Mini's floor is 12 volts. A lithium battery sits around 13.2 to 13.4 volts for most of its range. A lead-acid battery at half charge rests near 12.2 volts. So with lithium you have about a volt to lose in the wire, and with lead-acid you have almost none.
Here is the drop at 5 amps, about the Mini's 60 watt rating at 12 volts, over a 20 foot run (40 feet out and back):
| Wire | Drop |
|---|---|
| 16 AWG | 0.80 V |
| 14 AWG | 0.51 V |
| 12 AWG | 0.32 V |
| 10 AWG | 0.20 V |
Use 12 AWG for a 20 foot run to a Mini. Beyond that, or on lead-acid, boost the voltage (below). Our 12 volt voltage drop guide covers the method.
For the Standard, the 12 volt run only goes from the battery to Starlink's DC-DC supply. Keep that leg short and heavy. At the full 30 amp input rating, 10 feet of 10 AWG (20 feet out and back) loses 0.6 volts. At the 8 amp average, it loses 0.16 volts.
When a DC-DC converter helps
A step-up converter at the battery lets you run the long leg at 24 volts. The current halves, so the same wire loses half the voltage, out of twice the voltage.
- The Orion-Tr 12/24-5 (isolated, 120 W) takes 8 to 17 volts in and puts out 24.2 volts at 5 amps. That is twice the Mini's 60 watt rating.
- The Orion 12/24-10 (non-isolated) takes 9 to 18 volts in and puts out 20 to 30 volts, factory set to 26.4 volts, at 10 amps with 95 percent efficiency.
Both outputs sit inside the Mini's 12 to 48 volt window. Use one for a roof or mast mount far from the battery, or when the house battery is lead-acid.
You do not need a converter if your truck or boat already runs 24 volts. The Mini and Starlink's DC-DC supply both accept up to 48 volts. The Standard never needs a boost, because its DC-DC supply does the conversion.
Fuse sizing
Fuse every positive run at the battery end, and size the fuse to protect the wire.
- Mini direct from 12 volts: it pulls about 5 amps at its 60 watt rating. A 10 amp inline blade fuse on 12 or 14 AWG covers it.
- Mini through an Orion-Tr 12/24-5: at its full 120 watts, the converter draws about 11.5 amps from 12 volts. Fuse the input at 15 amps on 12 AWG.
- Mini through an Orion 12/24-10: at full output it can draw about 23 amps. Fuse the input at 30 amps on 10 AWG.
- Standard DC-DC Power Supply: Starlink rates the input at 30 amps. Run 10 AWG and a 30 amp fuse, such as the 30 amp MIDI-fuse in a MIDI-fuse holder.
The cable and fuse sizing chart has the full table.
Battery sizing for all-day use
Multiply the average draw by 24 hours:
- Mini: 20 to 40 watts is 480 to 960 watt-hours a day, about 38 to 75 amp-hours at 12.8 volts.
- Standard: 75 to 100 watts is 1,800 to 2,400 watt-hours a day, about 141 to 188 amp-hours.
Add the inverter's overhead if you use one. A 280 amp-hour lithium battery holds about 3,584 watt-hours. Using 80 percent of it, that runs a Mini for three to six days, or a Standard for about a day and a quarter to a day and a half, with no charging. Lithium also holds its voltage well above 12 volts for most of its range, which suits the Mini's 12 volt floor.
Put a SmartShunt on the battery and you will see exactly what your dish draws in your weather, not an average.
Related guides
- How big a lithium battery does your RV need?
- What size inverter do I need for my RV?
- How to install a Victron SmartShunt
Send us your dish, your battery, and the cable length from the battery to the mount. We will tell you whether to go direct, add an Orion, or fit Starlink's DC supply. Everything ships from Upland, California, and the counter is open if you would rather collect it.