Which Bluetti power setup fits a Black Series HQ RV

For weekend trips in a Black Series HQ, a portable station is the fit: an Elite 200 V2 or an Elite 300 that rides in the tow vehicle, adds 120V capacity on top of the camper's own battery bank and inverter, and goes home with you. For long stays or full-time living, the fixed RV5 system is the option, because it replaces the camper's inverter, converter, solar controller and DC-DC charger with one 48V hub and a stackable battery. Before you order either, check four things on your own camper: the battery bank size, the inverter rating, how much roof solar is already fitted, and how the bank charges while towing. Every price in this guide is in one dated section near the end.

What we know about Black Series electrical systems, and what to check on yours

We sell a lot of Black Series parts. The published Black Series specifications that matter for a Bluetti decision are these:

• Black Series ships lithium batteries as standard: 400Ah on the HQ15, HQ17, HQ19, HQ21, HQ21 Balcony and TH22, 200Ah on the HQ12 and TH19, and an 800Ah Victron package on the Yellow Stone and Rocky Mountain editions of every model. Yours may have been changed by a previous owner, so open the compartment and read the labels.
• Base-edition Black Series RVs come with 600W of roof solar and a 2,000W pure sine wave inverter; Yellow Stone and Rocky Mountain editions have 1,200W of solar and a 3,000W inverter.
• Every model has 30-amp shore power and an NEC-compliant electrical system with UL-listed components.
• As a rough planning figure, a 12V compressor fridge, lights, water pump and fans in warm weather can use 60 to 100 amp-hours a day, and that climbs fast if you run an inverter for a coffee maker or induction cooktop. Your own use will differ; the calculator above turns it into a number.

What you still need to check on your own camper before buying is: the battery bank in your trailer today (it may have been changed by a previous owner); the inverter rating; how much roof solar is fitted and whether there is free roof space; whether a DC-DC charger is fitted for charging while towing; and the 30-amp shore-power inlet. Those answers decide which of the setups below makes sense, because the camper's own electrical fit-out is what a Bluetti product has to live alongside.

Route 1: a portable station for weekends

This is the setup most Black Series owners actually want. The camper's 12V bank keeps doing what it does well: lights, water pump, fridge, fans. The Bluetti station adds extra 120V capacity on top of the camper's own inverter: the coffee maker, the induction cooktop, the laptop chargers and the tools. Nothing gets wired into the trailer, so there is nothing to undo when you sell it.

A note on the Elite 300: on our store it is currently sold only in bundles, not as a standalone station. The Elite 300 + Charger 1 Bundle is the natural one for a towed camper because the alternator charger is the piece you would add anyway; the Elite 300 + Charger 2 Bundle is the alternative if you want alternator and solar input together.

Elite 200 V2 is the pick for a couple in an HQ12 or HQ15 doing two- and three-night weekends. It has more AC output than the Elite 300 (2,600W against 2,400W), which matters if you run an induction cooktop, and it doubles as a UPS with a 15ms switchover. Elite 300 is the pick when the trip is longer or the fridge is bigger: it is a single carryable unit with no expansion modules or wiring, and it carries 940.8Wh more than the Elite 200 V2 (3,014.4Wh − 2,073.6Wh). The Elite 300 also takes a dedicated 12V/30A RV cable, which is worth knowing about if you want DC out of the station rather than running everything through the inverter.

Some arithmetic: 60 to 100 amp-hours a day at 12V is roughly 720 to 1,200Wh. That is the camper's fridge-and-lights load, and it stays on the camper's bank. The station's capacity is on top of that, for the 120V loads. Even though your camper already has a lithium bank, the station is still a sound answer for weekends, because it adds capacity without touching the trailer's wiring.

To recharge at camp, a PV200 folding panel unfolds on its own kickstand, so nothing gets drilled into the roof. The PV350 is the choice if you want more panel on the ground.

Route 2: a fixed RV5 system for long stays and full-timers

The RV5 is a 5-in-1 hub: it replaces the converter, inverter, transfer switch, solar charge controller and DC-DC charger with a single 48V unit that puts out 5,000W at 120V, with dual MPPT solar inputs, alternator charging and a 48V-to-12V step-down for the camper's DC loads. The battery is the B4810, a 51.2V 100Ah LiFePO4 module. Bluetti lists it at 5,120Wh with 4.8kWh usable, rated for 6,000 or more cycles to 80% capacity, and it stacks: start with one and add more rather than replacing the bank. The Epanel replaces the breaker panel with monitored circuits, and the Epad is the 10.1-inch touchscreen that shows state of charge, loads and solar on one screen, with two dry-contact relays and inputs for tank-level senders.

Bought together as the 5kWh RV Kit, the four pieces cost less than buying them singly at October prices (the arithmetic is in the price section). The kit arrives pre-wired, charges from shore power to 80% in 50 minutes per Bluetti, and can be scaled by adding B4810 batteries.

Be clear about what this is: it is a rebuild of the camper's electrical system, not an accessory. The RV5 takes over the jobs the factory converter, inverter and solar controller were doing, so those come out or get bypassed. This is where the four checks above earn their keep. Every Black Series already has a lithium bank and a factory inverter, and the Yellow Stone and Rocky Mountain editions already carry an 800Ah Victron package, 1,200W of solar and a 3,000W inverter, so an RV5 build is replacing working equipment, and for many owners a portable station will serve better. If you are planning weeks off-grid and want a larger 48V system, the RV5 route gives you a 48V system with a 12V step-down for the existing DC circuits, and one screen for the whole thing. We stock the four RV5 install wiring packs, including the alternator charger wiring pack and the solar panel wiring pack.

Roof solar: the PV100 FX 2-pack

The PV100 FX 2-pack is two flexible 100W monocrystalline panels, 200W total. Flexible panels follow the curve of a roof and add little weight up high, which suits a camper that gets towed down corrugations. Base-edition HQs already carry 600W of roof solar (1,200W on Yellow Stone and Rocky Mountain editions), so check how much free roof space is left before adding panels. Before you order, check whether your roof is already pre-wired for solar and what connector the run terminates in; if it is, the panels may land on the existing run, and if it is not, the RV5 solar wiring pack covers the hub end. The pair feeds the RV5 or any Bluetti station with a solar input, so it works for either route.

Charging from the tow vehicle: Charger 1 and Charger 2

A day of towing is the charging opportunity most owners waste. For a portable station, the Charger 1 delivers up to 560W from the alternator, switches on and off automatically so it will not flatten the starter battery, and per Bluetti brings a 1kWh station to full in about 2.5 hours. The Charger 2 takes up to 800W from the alternator and up to 600W from solar at the same time, 1,200W total; add the DC Hub for Charger 2 (listed at 700W, 9 DC ports) if you want 12V DC outputs from it. Both chargers are rated by Bluetti for all Bluetti stations. For the RV5 system, alternator charging is built into the hub, so what you need is the alternator charger wiring pack rather than a separate charger. Either way, confirm how your tow vehicle's trailer circuit is wired before you plan on charging while driving.

Which setup for which camper

Prices checked October 11, 2026 — tap a product for today's price. The setup totals in the second table are worked from these unit prices, so you can redo them with today's numbers.

The RV5 kit check: the four pieces bought singly come to $1,172.34 + $1,498.00 + $450.34 + $360.09 = $3,480.77, so at October prices the 5kWh RV Kit is $142.43 less and also arrives pre-wired; it usually wins unless you are keeping your existing breaker panel and do not want the Epanel. Before you order a solar bundle, check its listing to see which 200W panel it includes.

The full range is in our Bluetti collection. Found it cheaper? We'll beat it.

What we'd do

For most HQ owners we would start with the Elite 300 + Charger 1 Bundle and a PV200 ($1,594.14 at October 11 prices), because it solves the 120V problem this weekend without touching the camper and it comes with you to the next trailer. We would only go to the RV5 system once we had confirmed the camper's existing bank, inverter and solar pre-wiring, and had decided we were rebuilding the electrical system for weeks off-grid rather than adding to it.

If our price drops within 30 days after you buy, we email the difference as store credit. Free standard shipping to the contiguous US with no minimum (freight and oversized items, Alaska, Hawaii and territories excluded), and 30-day returns with no restocking fee on eligible items. Questions? Call or email us in Upland, California.